Everything you need to know about living with a WCTNZ® composting toilet system
What’s it really like? Composting toilet myths busted.
No, they’re not. Long drops use an anaerobic decomposition method—wet, slow, and producing methane, ethane, and sulphur gases with an unpleasant smell. They create a pollution field of about 15 meters and can seep into waterways. Composting toilets use aerobic decomposition, which is drier, releases oxygen and carbon dioxide (less odorous), and has minimal pollution. Plus, you get nutrient-rich compost for your garden!
In split-systems (under-the-floor), no—the composting chamber is below the floor, hidden by a dark chute. We advise against lights above the toilet, as they could reveal the compost pile. Self-contained (on-floor) systems might show the pile, depending on chamber screens.
Not at all! Our systems use a 24/7 fan for active venting, creating negative air pressure to pull air from the room, through the toilet, and out a pipe above the building. This keeps odors lower than a flushing toilet.
No, regular toilet paper works fine—it composts easily, and the bleach content won’t harm the microbes.
Yes, but avoid harsh chemicals—they’ll damage the compost. Use eco-friendly options like Nature Flush Enzymes, which cleans and boosts composting with natural enzymes.
Yes, a small amount of water won’t hurt the compost.
Nature Flush Enzymes is our top pick—it’s natural, effective, and supports composting. Avoid harsh chemicals, soaps, or baking soda mixes, as they kill beneficial bacteria.
It’s surprisingly normal! You sit, use it, and add a scoop of bulking agent—no flush, no fuss. Many of our customers say it quickly becomes second nature, and they love not wasting water. It’s a small change for a big environmental win.
Absolutely. Most systems look like regular toilets, and a simple sign (e.g., “No flush—just add a scoop of mix!”) is usually enough. Guests often comment on how clean and odor-free it is compared to their expectations!
Your perfect fit: sizing, setup, and council answers.
Yes! We offer systems for single users up to high-volume commercial use. Check capacity details in our manuals or website, or call us for personalized advice.
We recommend professional installation for safety and reliability, but DIY is possible with basic building and plumbing skills. Manuals are available on our product pages. Maintenance is simple—empty the chamber when full (every few weeks to a year, depending on the system) and clean regularly.
Our fans need minimal power (mains or solar), and wind-driven vents enable power-free use. Heated systems, however, require electricity.
Composting toilets handle blackwater via a leachate drain, separate from greywater. You’ll only need a greywater solution for the rest of the house—contact us for options.
Most systems (except Bambooloo, NL2, & CM2) are certified to AUS/NZ Standards (AS/NZS 1546.2:2008). CM2 meets Building Standards. In urban areas with sewer connections, councils may restrict on-site systems, but exceptions are possible, or use them as backup toilets. Where septic systems are allowed, ours are too. We provide council consent documents—download them from our site.
It depends on the system. Self-contained units like the Nature Loo Classic 850 fit in a standard bathroom space, while split-systems (e.g., Clivus Multrum) need under-floor room for the composting chamber. Check product specs on our site—we’ve got options for tiny homes, baches, and even commercial setups!
Yes, many of our systems are relocatable, especially self-contained models or those designed for mobile setups like house trucks. Split-systems are trickier but doable with planning. Give us a call to discuss your model’s portability.
With proper care, our systems last decades. Pedestals are built tough, and composting chambers are designed for long-term use. Fans or vents might need replacing after 5-10 years, but we’ve got spares ready when you need them.
How to keep your composting toilet thriving.
Use untreated wood shavings, coco peat, peat moss, or onsite compost browns. Avoid sawdust (it clumps), food scraps, hay, or grass (they attract pests).
No, the compost naturally has all the bacteria it needs. If you accidentally kill them (e.g., with chemicals), we offer a “starter bacteria” mix to revive it.
Stick to human waste, bulking agents, and toilet paper. Avoid:
If you’ve added something harmful, call us or check our recovery kits under Consumables.
We advise against it. Regular pads/tampons don’t break down, and even organic ones may not fully compost, requiring removal before burial.
Worms aren’t recommended—they need wetter conditions and constant food, which a composting toilet may not provide. Food scraps attract flies, so skip them too.
It varies by system and usage. For a single person, some chambers last up to a year; for larger households or continuous systems, it might be every few months. Check your system’s manual, or give us a shout for a tailored estimate.
A faint earthy scent is normal, but anything stronger means something’s off—maybe too much moisture or a fan issue. Add bulking agent to dry it out, check the vent, or call us for troubleshooting tips. We’ve got your back!
Yes, our systems handle downtime well. The compost just sits and matures. If it’s dry when you return, add a bit of water and bulking agent to kickstart it again. Perfect for baches or seasonal use!
What the composted material is like—and how to use it.
Yes! After proper decomposition and aging, pharmaceuticals and pathogens are neutralized. Microbial competition eliminates viruses (gone in 48 hours outside the body), and heavy metals are bound, safe for plants. Worms further refine it in the soil. Some systems need secondary maturation—use two bins: fill one for a year, let it mature a year, then bury it while filling the second. Contact us for system-specific advice.
Note: Best practice is 12 months of composting, though pathogens can clear in 3 months under ideal conditions.
Not much! Compost shrinks by up to 90%, leaving about 10L per person annually. This varies by system and climate—larger continuous systems see the most reduction.
We recommend sticking to ornamental plants or fruit trees, as a precaution. While it’s safe and pathogen-free after proper composting, local regs often suggest avoiding edible crops. Bury it under trees or flowers for a happy garden!
It’s a dark, crumbly, soil-like material with a mild earthy smell—think rich potting mix. No trace of its origins, just nature doing its magic!
The benefits of going waterless with WCTNZ®.
A ton! A standard NZ dual-flush toilet uses 3-6 liters per flush. With 5 flushes daily (say, 4 half at 3L, 1 full at 6L), that’s 18 liters per person—72 liters a day for a family of four. A composting toilet? Zero. That’s a whopping 26,280 liters saved annually—perfect for off-grid or drought-prone spots! Got an older 6-12L toilet? Savings jump to 43,800-87,600 liters a year.
Absolutely. No water waste, no sewage treatment energy, and you’re turning waste into compost instead of polluting waterways. It’s a closed-loop system that fits right into sustainable living.
Composting toilets are simpler and cheaper long-term—no pump-outs, no leach fields, and no risk of groundwater contamination. Septic systems need regular maintenance and can fail; ours just keep composting quietly.
Upfront costs vary, but you’ll save on water bills, septic servicing, and plumbing infrastructure. For off-grid or rural builds, it’s often the most cost-effective option. Plus, you get free compost—nature’s bonus!